Exploring the Intersection of Culture and Science Fiction: Anthony Tran's Vision for STAR TREK: DISCOVERY

Tara Rosling as President T'Rina and Doug Jones as Saru wearing costumes designed by Anthony Tran in STAR TREK: DISCOVERY. Image: Michael Gibson/Paramount+.

The final season of Star Trek: Discovery has transported us across the galaxy, showcasing diverse cultures and stunning environments. Behind the scenes, costume designer Anthony Tran has played a crucial role in bringing this vibrant universe to life. In an interview with StarTrek.com, Tran discussed his creative process, drawing on personal and historical influences to craft the unique looks of the 32nd century.

Tran's journey with Star Trek began in his childhood, influenced by his parents' love for the first series in the franchise. 

"My parents were fans of The Original Series," he said. "I remember at one point we were in LA randomly, I grew up in Southern California, and we met George Takei. My parents are immigrants from Vietnam, and they were so stoked about it." 

This early exposure, combined with a reintroduction through the 2009 film, set the stage for Tran's eventual role in shaping the visual narrative of Discovery.

Tran's work on season 5 exemplifies his talent for blending real-life cultural elements with the futuristic aesthetic of Star Trek. He describes the inspiration behind the costumes for various new planets, such as Q'Mau, which drew from Bedouin, Tuareg, and traditional Asian textiles. "Our first episode, we went to a planet called Q'Mau," Tran said. "The references are pretty clear that it's Bedouin, Tuareg, traditional nomadic tribes. But I also looked at Miao and Hill tribes, and Vietnam and Thailand, just purely from a textile perspective."

This attention to detail extends to characters like Saru, whose ambassadorial attire reflects Tran's Vietnamese heritage. 

"Growing up and even looking at the Vietnamese ao dai, the way that's cut and its linear-ness, that influenced what we did with Saru when he became an ambassador," he revealed.

Tran's background in costume history significantly informs his designs, grounding the fantastical elements of Star Trek in tangible reality. 

"I'm such a costume history buff," Tran shares. "That was my way into becoming a costume designer, looking at our history, and being a huge fan of John Singer Sargent and all these people that would paint great costume portraits."

This historical insight is evident in the intricate detailing of the costumes. For the character Hy'Rell in "Labyrinths," Tran was inspired by the Efrosian president from Star Trek VI, incorporating specific quilting techniques into the design. 

"We just did it in a different way with glue versus sewing, updating some techniques."

One of Tran's standout projects this season was designing the wedding attire for Saru and T'Rina. T'Rina's Vulcan wedding dress, in particular, reflects a deep respect for the franchise's history while introducing modern elements. 

"We emphasized the strong shoulder T'Rina had, and played with both of T'Pring's iterations, which had linear-raised designs," Tran said. 

He aimed to create a 32nd-century version of lace, using gold leather to add dimension and modernity to the traditional Vulcan symbol on her chest.

Tran faced a significant challenge in updating the iconic Breen uniforms, which required extensive prototyping. 

"It's the season of the Breen," Tran said. "I remember at first, I thought, 'Oh, we just need 10 [uniforms],' and by the end of it, we made 60 of them." 

His goal was to maintain the original design's essence while introducing sleek, modern elements and incorporating new cooling technology inspired by NASA suits.

As Discovery concludes its final season, Tran reflects on the collaboration and creativity that defined his experience. The season finale, featuring Admiral Burnham and Cleveland Booker, showcases the blend of contemporary and futuristic elements that have become Tran's hallmark. 

"Book and Burnham were living this remote lifestyle. We were trying to ground the clothes and make them feel as real as possible," Tran said.